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PLAYING IN THE ROCKIES, 2006
By Francisco J. Garza
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We arrived in Georgetown Colorado on that Sunday
evening after a long drive from Houston that had started Saturday afternoon,
it was day one of our 2 week family vacation . This would be our first stop
on what would become a climbing-sightseeing-running tour of Colorado`s high
country, an area that we all fell in love with last summer.
Georgetown is a nice Victorian town about 40 miles west
of Denver, altitude 8,500 ft, a good place to start my acclimatization
preparing for the Steamboat marathon six days later.
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Day 2: Memorial day; it was meant to be an “easy” day,
we spent it exploring the town, riding the enchanting Georgetown loop narrow
gage railroad (a restored train pulled by steam engines from the late
1800`s) to the nearby town of Silver Plume along Clear creek through a nice
pine-aspen forest covered canyon. Later we went to the Loveland ski area and
then we drove to nearby Guanella pass (11,669 ft) to hike for a while in the
tundra and have a nice snowball fight.
Day 3: Time for some action. I grabbed my backpack and
drove a few miles west on I-70 then south and up a steep gravel road to the
trailhead of Grays Peak, this trailhead is just below timberine (where the
forest ends) which is pretty high but O.K. to me since I would try to climb
the twin peaks Grays and Torreys, two of the 54 Colorado fourteeners. A
fourteener being a mountain with an altitude of 14,000 ft or more. In
Colorado climbing 14ers is a popular sport and last year I got bitten by
the 14er bug after climbing Mt Elbert (14,433 ft) and Mt Massive (14, 421
ft), the first and second highest in a single day.
From the trailhead I could see that most of the way was
still covered by snow, thanks in part to a brief storm during the night that
left 2 inches of fresh powder. It was a slow go, the sometimes knee-deep
snow required doing postholing and careful footing at times on the otherwise
straightforward trail. I reached the summit of Grays Peak (14,270 ft) after
a little over 3 hours, took some pictures, talked to some climbers and then
hiked down to the saddle (low point between two peaks) and back up on the
connecting ridge for 30 minutes to the summit of Torreys Peak (14,267 ft)
where I saw a group of skiers go down on the mountain's steepest slope on
it's north side. The great views included snowy peaks ranging from 12,000 to
14,000 ft in elevation in all directions. The hike down was a little easier
since much of the new snow had melted out with the warm sunrays.
Distance traveled: 9 miles; elevation gain: 3,600 ft.
Later that afternoon we packed and traveled to Estes
Park, to the northwest of Boulder, where we had reservations for a nice
cabin.
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Day 4: Estes Park is a small resort town and
it's the
gateway to Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP), altitude 8,000 ft. . I got
up early that day put my trail runners on and hit the surrounding trails
through the forest, keeping a slow pace and enjoying the cool temperatures,
the clean air and nice views of snowcapped peaks I ran for 55 minutes.
We spent the rest of the day hiking to some beautiful
lakes below the majestic peaks in RMNP.
Day 5: After only a few hours of sleep I grabbed my
gear and drove 10 miles south to Longs` Peak trailhead. At 14,255 ft Longs
is the highest peak in RMNP and the northernmost Colorado 14er, it is a
magnet for hikers and climbers but this is not an “easy” mountain, it has
been proven that given certain conditions it can be dangerous and even
deadly. At 4:00 AM I started my hike on the most heavily used trail in
Colorado, and got a little bit discouraged by the sign that read : “this
trail is technical at this time”. I heard about this before but I still
decided to give it a try. Once reaching timberline I paused to see the sun
rising above the neighboring Twin Sisters peaks, it was a chilly morning and
I had to put on a second pair of gloves; at the Chasm lake junction I had my
first good look at Longs` fearsome east face as well as it's companion Mt
Meeker, the highest 13er in RMNP. I kept going on that never ending trail
around Mt Washington and then into the infamous boulder field hopping from
boulder to boulder at first then becoming a steepening scramble until I
reached the famous “Keyhole”. This peculiar rock formation gives this route
it's name . Here the scenery changes abruptly, to the west and directly
below what comes into view is the Glacier Gorge, a deep canyon surrounded by
many jagged snowy peaks filled with lakes (some still frozen), glaciers,
water streams and waterfalls. This is a jaw dropping view, so I took a while
to soak it in and took some pictures. From this point the route turns to the
south and it's real difficulties start, the summit itself is very close (1/4
of a mile in distance) but 1000 ft above, the route traverses across a
slabby and some times scree filled very steep slope that due to it's
location (on the shady side of the mountain) contained some snow and ice,
the reason why it's called technical and not many climb it this time of the
year. Until this point I had yet to see another person on the mountain,
while I was trying to decide what to do a guy popped out of nowhere, he was
heading to the same place, I decided to follow him, but he was a local and
knew the mountain by heart, soon he was too far ahead to catch up and I got
stuck in an icy section. I stopped and decided to make a painful decision,
the route was risky and I was alone so I decided to play it safe and turned
around at about 13,200 ft. In the end I traveled 12.5 miles with an
elevation gain of 4,000 ft.
We spent the afternoon in Estes Park.
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Day 6: I needed to stand on a summit after the
previous` day disappointment, so I headed out to Hallett peak (12,713 ft),
one of RMNP most prominent landmarks. It was a nice sunny morning when I
started hiking on this good trail that would first take over the summit of
Flattop mountain (12,324 ft), as I gained altitude I noticed more and more
water springs along the trail, then on the northern side of the mountain the
first signs of trouble came to view, snow drifts that at first were
avoidable but later covered the whole trail. I followed some tracks on the
deep snow straight up the hillside through the dense forest, this was
becoming too tiring for me (this required snowshoes) but suddenly I reached
treeline and my troubles went away. The view above this area with some elks
in the distant slopes kept me going. I reached the summit of Flattop and
pressed on the meandering trail above Tyndall glacier and then up the rocky
ridge to the summit of Hallett peak. I had the summit to myself and enjoyed
the views of the emerald colored lakes below the Glacier gorge and the
mountains west of the continental divide.
The hike toward Taylor peak looked fairly easy but I
decided to abort it 20 minutes into it since it could have taken at least 3
hours round trip. The hike down was very fast, I ran about half of the
distance and managed to lose the trail in the snow momentarily.
That day I covered 10.5 miles with an elevation gain of
3,300 ft. Back in town I started my carbo-loading at the local pasta
restaurant, later we hiked to Alberta Falls in RMNP.
Day 7: We left Estes Park to travel to Steamboat
Springs in northwest Colorado, we had to cross RMNP via the Trail ridge
road, the highest continuous road over the continental divide in the U.S. at
12,100 ft. From the highest point we had one last look at the magnificent
snowy peaks and kept driving along the snowdrift lined road.
Once in Steamboat (6,900 ft) I proceeded to pick up my
packet and noticed the warm temperatures (mid 80`s) and sunny weather, not
good. In the evening we went to the pasta dinner where the race director
warned us about the hot weather, the last thing I wanted to hear.
Day 8: Marathon day! I got up after a few hours of
sleep and my wife dropped me off at the bus boarding area at 6 AM. A 30
minute ride took us up to Hahn`s Peak Village, elevation: 8,100 ft. I could
feel that the forecast was wrong, instead of the mid 40`s it was in the mid
50`s and the 7:30 start didn't help much considering that the sun is already
out shortly after 6 AM. After applying plenty of lip balm and sunscreen we
lined up and the gun went off. We would run 26 miles back to town on the
eastern lane of the same road that we took to get there, at first it felt
like a roller coaster ride going up a steep hill then descending steeply for
almost 3 miles before hitting the relatively “flat section”. This course has
a net drop of 1,150 ft but this is deceiving since there are a lot of hills
in the middle. At the half point I was still doing O.K. time wise, enjoying
the green rolling hills then the brief shade in the Elk river valley. By
mile 17 I started to feel the effects of the thin and dehydrating dry air,
this and the fact that there were only a few water stations along the course
didn't help me although I had taken my water bottle belt with me. By mile 20
I was dehydrated and slowing down, that's where they threw in their own
version of “heartbreak hill”, I had to walk it up, my water supply was
depleted. I struggled through mile 23 where I found water, I stopped and
downed a couple of cups and refilled my bottle. I was able to shuffle the
rest of the way to downtown where we were finally cheered on by a few
spectators. The home stretch was cool as they were calling out our names and
places of origin, that's where I made my best impersonation of a good runner
as I crossed the finish line.
I was a distant 4th place in my age group
but got a very nice medal, a mug and a pair of very cool smartwool socks
besides the usual t-shirt.
After a good breakfast we got back on the road, a very
winding one toward the south to the Leadville – Buena Vista corridor, or
what I call “the valley of the giants” in central Colorado, which is home of
the Sawatch Range, the one with the largest concentration of 14ers in the
nation. It was a nice view of the mountains I had climbed last year just
outside of Leadville only this time they had a lot of snow. Near the village
of Twin Lakes (9,300 ft) we rented a cabin, a place to forget about it all,
at the bottom of a canyon flanked by snowy 14ers and 13ers where the only
things you hear are the river flowing down the valley and the birds chirping
(mostly hummingbirds). We spent the evening relaxing around our campfire in
the cool breeze. I slept like a baby that night.
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Day 9: No rest for the weary. I got up and drove 4
miles up the road to La Plata peak's trailhead, there were not many people
there. I followed a good trail all the way to the upper northwest ridge
where I had to hike over broken terrain to avoid the snow covered trail. I
passed by a few playful marmots and went across a few snow patches then made
the final turn to the east to the fifth highest summit in Colorado at 14,336
ft. it had taken me 4 long hours on my tired legs. A couple of guys on the
summit provided me with valuable info about the surrounding peaks. After a
photo session I headed back down being able to jog half of the way getting
back to my car in two hours. Total distance traveled: 9 miles; elevation
gain: 4,300 ft.
We all went to Aspen and visited the awesome Maroon
Bells recreation area later that day going over Independence pass (12,120
ft), from where we had an unobstructed view of La Plata peak complete, it is
huge.
Day 10: Still enjoying fabulous weather I headed a
little south to the Missouri gulch trailhead, to climb Mt Belford (14,197
ft), I immediately felt the steepness of that trail on the initial
switchbacks, I followed that mostly snow free good trail for 3.5 miles to
the summit gaining 4,560 ft in elevation in 3 hours of almost non-stop
hiking. From the rocky summit outcrop I saw neighboring Mt Oxford (14,153
ft) beyond the ridge that connects it to Belford, the route looked clear so
I went for it; it was a steep downhill to the saddle followed by a gradual
uphill, 50 minutes later I had Oxford's summit all to myself, there were
some awesome wildflowers along the way. I got back to Belford after a quick
snack now climbing on that steep slope then over it's summit again and back
down the switchbacking steep trail running about half of it but bringing
back only memories since I had left my camera at the cabin. That day I
traveled 11 miles gaining 5,900 ft in elevation witch left me a little tired.
We spent the afternoon in Leadville and had a nice
dinner to celebrate my oldest son`s birthday.
Day 11: Still with a little craving for mountain I
drove south to Buena Vista and then a few more miles west to Denny creek,
the trailhead for Mt Yale (14,196 ft) . With no one else in sight I started
my hike on a good trail on the south side of the mountain, soon I was above
timberline and followed the steep but straightforward trail that was 95%
snow free all the way to the upper ridge, I had seen the tracks of one hiker
and deer but luckily no cougars or bears as someone had warned me. Three
hours of hiking put me on the ridge where I saw the only other climber
already on his way down, another twelve minutes of scrambling on the narrow
broken summit ridge got me to the boulder strewn high point. Up there I had
an excellent view, this time I had a great photo session; with no one else
around I really savored that moment. Some clouds started to build up nearby
and lightning is a real danger on these peaks high above timberline so I
headed down quickly, being able to run about three quarters of the way on
those steep down hills using my trail runners.
This trip accounted for 7 miles in distance and 4,300
ft of elevation gain. Later that day we dined in Buena Vista and visited the
Agnes Vail falls near Mt Princeton where we saw mountain goats and also the
ghost town of St Elmo. We enjoyed our last campfire by the cabin that chilly
evening.
Day 12: We packed and left our Twin Lakes` cabin and
headed up to Leadville and took the 2 hour train ride up to the mountains
just to the north where the Arkansas river comes to life. From there we
drove south to the nice and quiet town of Salida.
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Day 13: We got on the road again still heading south
into the San Luis Valley, where we visited a weird alligator sanctuary, then
went to the Sand Dunes National Park, a surreal place that contrasts against
the impressive Sangre de Cristo mountains just to the east. My oldest son
and I hiked for an hour to what we thought was the highest dune but later we
found out it was actually the second highest, with the big one a couple of
miles away, it was a strenuous hike. An hour later we hiked to the nearby
Zapata falls.
The original plan was to leave this place and start the
long drive home, to get there the next day and have one day to recover, but
my brain formulated a better plan, we were so close to the Sierra Blanca
that it would be a sin to leave without visiting a peak there, so we decided
to spend the night in Alamosa.
Day 14: The idea of climbing Blanca Peak, the fourth
highest 14er in Colorado at 14,345 ft, had been in my mind for a long time,
now was the time to actually do it. Since it is a long hike most people do
it in two days, camping up high near timberline, I knew it wasn't going to
be easy to do it in one day. So I got out a little earlier that morning, I
could only drive two miles up that road after getting off the highway. I
started hiking by 5:00 AM having to follow this 4x4 road all the way to the
first lake. I had read that this is Colorado's toughest road, and by now I
had realized it wasn't suitable for just any 4x4 vehicle, it was horrendous
even on foot, there were hardly any flat spots for normal footing. It took
me four hours of tedious hiking to reach Como Lake, I saw a few tents there
but no people, only a deer. Just beyond the lake I cleared the trees and
Little Bear Peak ( 14,120 ft) came into view, it's incredibly steep and bare
north face looked sinister from the bottom, but still no Blanca Peak in
sight. When the road finally died below blue lakes a nice waterfall appeared
ahead emerging from a pile of overhanging snow, above it the scenery looked
more like a moonscape, a bare rocky valley flanked by Ellingwood Point
(14,042 ft) to the north and Blanca Peak to the south with the jagged
connecting ridge in between straight ahead. From this point I basically
hopped from boulder to boulder ocasionally dodging snow and icy patches then
scrambled carefully on the long and steep final ridge. The small summit
appeared in front of me after 6 hours of hard work, I felt relieved and
excited to be there so I screamed it out loud. The views were astonishing,
there was one more 14er to the east, Mt Lindsey (14,042 ft) besides Little
Bear and Ellingwood, with other 13ers around and the Crestones farther to
the north, also some nice icy lakes below Blanca`s huge northeast wall plus
Crater lake with it's turquoise waters, which I had hiked by on my way up;
the highway looked far away. This summit was not all that pretty compared to
others, there were no wildflowers anywhere, just bare rock.
I was joined by a couple that I had passed on my way
up, after a nice conversation and the required photo session it was time to
head back down, I was tired and my knees a little achy and still had half of
the way to go, it was a slow go on the boulder field and not much faster on
that horrible road. I tried running a few times but the terrain, the sun,
the heat and my tired legs wouldn't let it last long. I finally reached my
car after three and a half hours of downhill, Blanca's abrasive rocks ate up
my trail runners` outsole, they looked as if I had ran 150 miles that day.
After downing a cold drink I drove back to the hotel to take a shower and
pack up.
The round trip to Blanca was 14.6 miles long with a
brutal 6,350 ft of elevation gain.
As soon as I got out of my vehicle I felt the effects
of what I had done, my legs were wobbly, my knees were hurting like never
before and the bad sunburn made me feel like I was on fire plus I also had a
throbbing headache and I thought to myself “this must be how it feels after
running one of those crazy mountain ultramarathons”; a great achievement had
come at a great price, all I wanted was to lay down in bed until the next
day but instead I had a long drive ahead of me, so I kept driving until the
coffee couldn`t keep me awake no more somewhere between Amarillo and
Childress. The next day we continued the long drive to Houston, once at home
I did the math and was surprised when I added up the altitude gain of the
mountains I climbed, a grand total of 31,750 ft (not considering the hiking
that I did with my family) in a span of 12 days , visiting 10 mountains and
running a marathon.
This had been a vacation of a lifetime, one that I
certainly enjoyed even more than my family, a trip were my mind and my soul
went on vacation but not my legs, but that`s O.K., this was something I will
never forget that was well worth the price.
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Run far,
climb high… |
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